You ever see that movie the dawn of the dead where the zombies take over the country and people fight to survive? Well Hanoi is sort of like that, but it's the motorbikes that have taken over. Now I've seen my fair share of motorcycles around the world- Lahore, Kuta, have a lot for sure. But Hanoi takes the cake. They are swarming. During rush hour in the city center, i counted over a hundred pass by our cab while we were stopped! They have no fear and no rules. You just have to go and let them maneuver around you. It's like a sea of bugs everywhere, like those killer bugs in the Mummy movies. There are men, women kids, grandmas, and even families and pets on single bikes. I just wish more would wear helmets! I saw some kid texting and riding with his baby sister in back!
One of the guys on the boat cruise asked me "did you try crossing the street yet?" I didn't know what he meant, but now I did. The motorcycles don't go by lights or anything. They just go. If you wait for a clearing, well then you ain't crossing the street! So there are two basic methods.
Method 1: Frogger.
This requires some awareness and maneuverability. It's like the old Frogger game, but you're starting from level 10. And there is no guarantee you'll find a gap for the next step. I almost got hit this way but Luckily the chick stopped cold just in time right at my toes!
Method 2: Leap of Faith.
You ever see Indiana Jones and the Holy Grail? Of course you have. Remember when he had to go across the big ravine at the site of the grail, and he just closed his eyes and took that leap of faith? That pretty much the strategy. Don't think, don't maneuver, just walk straight and let the bikes swarm around you. If your faith is strong, you will make it across. This is my preferred strategy and I think it worked fine!
My hotel was the Rising Dragon Palace in the old quarter - a great location as it is close to the action, the shopping, and all the good eateries. Its a pretty new hotel with quaint rooms but real clean, on a quiet street, free wifi, and only 45$ a night! They also provided good reccomendations and a great user friendly map.
Hanoi is quite the bustling city. It is smaller and cozier the Bangkok, but very busy. The roads are smaller and narrower and, the buildings are not as grand and tall. It is poorer and humbler than Bangkok, and also a little dirtier. But it definitely has its character. At times it even reminded me of places in Pakistan. The streets are lined with shops, stalls, eateries, etc. There is no dead space. Sidewalks are packed with tables for the food vendors, "mini grocers", parked motorbikes, various merchants, or pedestrians. Occasionally even weaving bikes looking for an opening. You'll see a lot of wandering merchants, especially the little old ladies in their Vietnamese hats strolling around with a bamboo rod on their shoulders that holds a basket on each end selling anything from fruit to ear muffs.
Like Bangkok, you can buy all sorts of things from clothing to souvenirs etc. A lot of silk products like scarves and traditional clothing. Youll see a lot of designer knock offs everywhere from clothes to accessories. The one thing that is legit is the North Face gear though. North Face stuff is made in Vietnam and anything that is "rejected" to export gets sold real cheap at local shops. It's often barely noticeable too, like some thread or seam that is off. I picked myself up a jacket for about 40$ US.
Also, watch out for the taxis. There are a few reputable companies like the guide books will tell you, but a lot of scams. I got into one guys cab that had a legit lookin banner on his cab, but then I noticed his meter was running real fast. Like more than double speed. I called him out on it, and he tried to make excuses. Then he wouldn't take me to the door of my hotel, said it was a block down on a one way. When I persisted he got mad and was yelling, as I was abusing him back, because he knew the hotel would call the police. I gave him the price he deserved (about 40% of his meter) and walked out as he continued his abused. Nice try buddy.
I checked out the Ho Chi Minh museum as well. They love that guy. It is a nice walk trough if you have a couple of hours to spare and want to check out some Ho-History. I actually really wanted to see the Mausoleum where you can see Uncle Ho himself, however it is closed on fridays, ho-well.
One of my main plans in Hanoi was to eat up a storm - restaurants and the streets alike. I'll dish out my dining adventures in the next post....
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